In terms of tekneek, what worked, and worked noticeably better for me, was to grasp the fore end just behind where the front sight tower is. My thumb wraps around the top of the rail running pretty much parallel to where the cut for the FSP is on my rail. My index and middle fingers are reaching forward a little bit; I've messed with using my index finger to point towards the target, but I need to experiment with that some more to see if there's any merit or improved performance from it. The one thing I'm trying to do, though, is to grab as much rail as I can, so the gun can be pulled into my shoulder. What I'm talking about is really getting behind and on top of the gun as I can; I find that when I aggressively pull that thing into my shoulder and lean into it, the muzzle hardly moves at all, and I'm getting nice, tight groups with adequate speed. I say adequate because I've never been, in my mind, a fast shooter. Matt E. has a timer that I think I gotta do some work with.
I also added a Magpul MIAD, set up in the fattiest fat fat configuration available. I love the Tango Down Battle Grip; its one of the best designs available. However, I have giant bear paw hands, and that grip is just a little too skinny front to back for me. I set up the MIAD as much like a fat ass Battlegrip as I could. I got the full kit, and would have used the trigger guard option if it didn't have that damnable finger rest on it. At first glance, the nublet on that part is hollow, so if I shaved it or filed it off, it'd probably leave a hole. I'm considering filling it with epoxy or something and shaving it, but it seems more likely that I'll pick up the Magpul aluminum trigger guard, which will solve the problem of the gap at the trigger guard, too. Getting a Gapper would be a less expensive solution, but this is a carbine we're talkin' about. If you don't have a boat, and I don't, the rule is that you spend all that disposable income on the gun. Its just the law.
Another new part is the Viking Tactics padded VTAC sling. I just put that on there, and don't have enough experience with it yet to make a real determination on it yet. It appears that the padding is set back further than it should have been, but I think I still need to mess with the adjustments a little before I decide if that's the case. I like the extra travel due to the longer straps; that seems to be solving my problem rather handily. It adjusts a little faster than my VCAS, but I'm not sure that's as much of an advantage as it appears to be at first blush.
Incidentally, that mark that looks like blue paint on my LaRue M68 mount, is in fact blue paint on my LaRue M68 mount, and the upper receiver. I marked the Troy Battlesight the same way, although the mounting screw is on the other side of the gun, so the mark on the receiver for it is, too. The purpose is twofold: first, it is a quick visual reference to see that everything is still tight, and secondly, if either of the sights get removed for whatever reason, they can be put back in the same place easily. Yet another jewel gleaned from Black Eyes and Green Rifles.
Unfortunately, The Big Johnson is on leave and Top's wife's B-day was today, so we didn't go to the range like we normally would have. I thought about just going and shooting for a bit, but I end up using up more ammo than I intend to when I do that, and I don't have the added benefit of being pushed out of my comfort zone by shooting with guys who are better than me. Instead, I did some more work on building my Intardweb Celebrity. It is a never ending task. Such is the lot of the Online Famous.
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8 comments:
I need Ranger Plates. About...9 of them. Or 20. However many you want to send me.
I have two, and both of those were given to me as singles. I think its gonna take me a long time to get 'em on all my mags that way. lol
I'm still working on the light issue. I have a Z3 Combatlight that's nice and super bright but I don't know if it needs the shock isolating bezel or what...
K. Lamb in his book (GE&BR)said that because of the nylon housing, the G2 is one of his favorite lights to mount on a carbine. Apparently, the nylon has some shock isolating properties, and lamps don't break as readily as they do with the aluminum lights without SIB's. One thing you can do is to use a P60L (80 lumens) or the upcoming (3rd qtr release) P61L (200 lumens, reportedly) LED lamp assemblies. They're drop in replacements for the P60 or P61 tungsten filament lamps that Surefire's been making for quite a while. Since LED's don't have filaments to break, they're dang near indestructible.
Looks pretty good, you need some PMAGS!
The LED's durability is a very compelling me-want. My wife has a black G2, but this is much brighter! The lights and technology are evolving so very quickly too.
There was a fairly complete para-dig-'em shift in lights over the course of maybe a couple years. Stuff that was a hot seller then is dead stock now because everything got smaller, tougher and brighter pretty much overnight! Its gonna be interesting to see where the new technology leads.
I have 10 P-Mags, but I can always use more. The mags in the photo are the ones that are typically in one side of my double rifle case. The tan one is by Defense Solutions Group, out of the box it has a Gen II Magpul follower and silicone wire springs. They're good stuff! Since most of my aluminum mags are older, I use them on the range, since I don't mind dropping the older mags.
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